the beauty of Italy’s traditional weavers
By Katie Trahair-Davies
Among Offida’s ancient walls, women’s hands move like poetry, weaving centuries of devotion into delicate lace. With quiet reverence, tradition resists time, stitch by stitch.
On a recent holiday to Italy, I stopped in the small commune of Offida, nestled in the arid landscape between city and sea in the province of Ascoli Piceno. This town is home of ‘tombolo di Offida’, a traditional lace weaving process that creates beautifully intricate clothing, accessories, bridal veils and home decorations.
Walking through the streets of Offida one cannot help but notice the many old ladies sat outside small shops, showing off the weaving process passed down from their ancestors. Their hands moved deftly despite the callouses and wrinkles- displaying not signs of aging, but signs of true mastery of their craft that can only be found after a lifetime of dedication. They use a method of bobbins (traditionally small ivory or wood sticks) that are worked on a pillow; passing under and over each over at impressive speeds for thousands of turns until an intricate design is formed.
From the moment of passing through the ancient defence walls of Offida, it is apparent that the profession of these ladies is at the centre of this community’s identity: with a statue commemorating their craft. As one ventures further into the town lace shops start to populate the streets, all businesses that have been passed down through family lines for centuries and continue to prosper.
In a world where traditional fashion practices are quickly eroding, what has this town done to so beautifully preserve their past, and why is ‘tombolo di Offida’ so special?
Bobbin lace, as it is named, originated from 16th century Italy, making it a fashion that has lasted for over 500 years. The custom is said to have been created by cloistered nuns, who used the technique to make religious decorations and clothing ornamentation. This slowly transitioned into a production line of a profitable and desired nature, as Italian noblewomen became enamoured with the intricate lace designs. It is also reported that many great artists of the 16th century used the patterns found in the bobbin lace as influence when creating their own frescos and paintings, cementing the practice as a true piece of Offida and Italy’s cultural history.
Despite the growing luxury of Offida’s bobbin lace, the custom remained for households of all backgrounds to house a loom. Bridal accessories and outfits, tablecloths, and other home furnishings were all created with care and skill at home. This can be seen today in the houses of the region, where rooms are still populated with tombolo di Offida in all its forms. Due to the influence of the aristocracy and the value that they saw in this art, bobbin lace quickly became- and continues to be- a symbol of status in every class circle.
This can be linked to the wider tradition of weaving that runs through Italian fashion history aside from Offida’s influence, with original lace patterns coming from each region of the country. Whilst its existence in the modern day is rooted in its historical significance, lace making was once linked heavily to contemporaneous fashion, as well as being a key pillar of industry for the Italian fashion world. The city first truly associated with lace, Venice traded these goods across Europe, thus spreading knowledge of the practice around continent’s wealthy and fashionable, making it the fashion staple that it is today.
Reflecting on the experience of seeing Offida’s population taking such pride in persevering this tradition, it becomes apparent to me that the fashion world must follow suit. There is a rare beauty in the hours that these ladies put into their work, which to me shows that the creation of fashion naturally should exist as a slow and delicate process- something that may appear obvious, but is ignored by many in the modern world. Now, although the demand is not the same as during the height of the lace’s fashion, the older female generation of Offida continue to carefully produce lace through the same method and in their traditional style. In the world of fast fashion and endless trends, I find this touching to witness. It is encouraging to see intentionality behind the cultural mark they are creating, and their refusal to discard of their traditions in return for modern ease.
As we walk down the street, people stop to watch the ladies use their tombolo on the street, engaging in conversation both about their work, or just chatting to an old friend. The idea that this practice is on display to the world is important, as it demonstrates how fashion should reflect community and culture, as well as personal taste. Offida’s commitment to preserving this rich history is admirable: with a museum standing in honour of the craft, alongside many workshops and organisations that support both upcoming and older artists. However, this is important not only in the sense that the town is working to preserve their cultural history, but that in the process they have maintained their strong sense of connection to each other. When fashion learns to slow down and honour tradition then a greater sense of community may be reborn.
Image Credit: Katie Trahair-Davies
