Infantilism chic: why everyone looks like a grown-up toddler

By Kate Kenny

Fashion is a creature of memory, forever looping through its past lives; from the clean restraint of 90s minimalism to the iridescent shimmer of Y2K. We are always reaching backward, yearning for the comfort of what came before. But this time, nostalgia has drifted even further, rewinding past adolescence itself and landing softly in the playroom. From glittery jelly sandals to cloudlike babydoll dresses, a new aesthetic has emerged — one that dresses adulthood in the language of innocence. Ribbons, ruffles, puffed sleeves: each whispering to the child we once were. This is Infantilism Chic, and it’s everywhere.

Rooted from the archives of 2020 TikTok, the rise of ‘kidcore’, fashion became confronted with the influence of late 90s and early 2000s TV aesthetics, the bright colours, chunky Doc Martens, playful, obscure and almost over-the-top prints. Designers soon followed suit: Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Miu Miu, even Gucci under Demna. Infantilism sculpted silhouettes that teetered between fantasy and folly, frothy tulle layering over the weary bones of modern womanhood. 

The delicate details are most deliberate. We could all picture the Peter Pan collars, smoked pinafores, puff sleeves and satin bows that bloom like after thoughts. Who can forget  Villanelle’s pink puffy tulle dress, a play on every baby ballet dancer’s tutu, brought to life in an adult setting by Goddard, herself. 

Scroll through TikTok or Instagram long enough, and you’ll find yourself in a pastel-coloured loop: adults in puff-sleeved dresses, chunky trainers, cartoon-print overalls, and hair clips straight from a nursery lost-and-found. The internet has expressed an interest in ‘cuteness’ with fashion subcultures amplified by algorithms rewarding novelty and visual extremes.  

In an era of economic anxiety, climate dread, and burnout before thirty, some are choosing to dress not for the job they want but the childhood they miss. The rise of Infantilism Chic marks a shift in how we express maturity, femininity, and rebellion in efforts to rewind the wardrobe clock. 

There is a sense of soft rebellion against corporate dress codes, yet some may attribute the style reflects a desire to reclaim innocence or even reject hyper-sexualised fashion norms. Either way, the escape from traditional adulthood is non-negotiable and there is a concern for the maturity of our future adults. 

However, no trend will go untouched by criticism. A crucial debate covers the concern of whether this reverse of Toddlers in Tiaras blurs the lines between empowering and the erasure of maturity. As a society we must question is this a regressive? Is this the excursion of female prejudice in the guise of Infantilism Chic.

Where is the line drawn between adults being hyper-sexualised in their choice of style and a minor encouragement of paedophilic beauty standards and a ‘Lolita’ fantasy.  In a world that should have moved beyond the fear of being sexualised for one’s clothing, the truth remains far less evolved. 

Where is the line being drawn from women dressing sensually by choice and dressing child-like to be infantalised. 

Not only is this hyper-sexualisation encouraged by ‘sexy schoolgirl’ or ‘sexy BoPeep’ Halloween costumes but we must also look at the sex industry stars who lean into an innocent, child-like act, drawing in thousands of watchers. 

Saying this, it is not the responsibility of the Infantilism Chic wearers and members of the sex industry to regulate these perverted fetishes.  

We hope this trend will move toward ironic self-awareness, embracing absurdity as high fashion, as opposed to encouraging hyper-sexualisation. 

Our prediction for the trend can see it blending with other maximalist or nostalgic trends, attaching to Y2K, clowncore, and the twee revival. There is even potential for an evolution into ‘age-fluid’ fashion – questioning the boundaries of dressing by age at all.  

Whether it’s a response to digital burnout, late-stage capitalism, or just a collective craving for comfort, Infantilism Chic reveals more than just a love for puff sleeves and cartoon socks. It’s fashion as fantasy, identity, and resistance; all wrapped in a pastel bow. And for now, at least, it seems the future of style looks a lot like the sandbox.